Quels sont les apports des nanotechnologies dans l’amélioration des propriétés physico-chimiques et biologiques des rétinoïdes contre le vieillissement cutané ?

(2026)

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Abstract
Skin aging refers to a set of progressive changes in the skin associated with intrinsic mechanisms (genetic, hormonal, and metabolic) and extrinsic factors (UV exposure, pollution, smoking, and diet).Retinoids are one of the most effective classes of active ingredients in the prevention and treatment of skin aging, due to their effects on cell renewal, collagen synthesis, and improvement of skin texture. However, their topical use is limited by several major constraints: chemical instability, skin tolerance issues leading to irritation and dryness, skin penetration that can be improved.. Nanotechnologies have emerged as a relevant strategy to overcome these limitations by improving the stability, cutaneous bioavailability, and tolerability of active ingredients. Various nanotechnological delivery systems have been studied, including liposomes, nanoemulsions, and lipid nanoparticles. These carriers enable efficient encapsulation of retinoids, controlled release, improved interaction with skin lipids, and a reduction in adverse effects. The studies analyzed show that these nanoscale systems significantly enhance the physicochemical stability of retinoids, promote targeted skin penetration, and reduce irritation compared to conventional formulations. However, the integration of nanotechnologies in cosmetics is strictly regulated by European legislation, particularly Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, which imposes specific requirements for notification, safety assessment, and labeling. Despite this rigorous framework, uncertainties remain regarding potential risks to human health and the environment, especially in cases of prolonged exposure or compromised skin conditions. Thus, nanotechnologies represent a promising advancement for the optimization of retinoids but require thorough and ongoing evaluation to ensure safe, effective, and sustainable use in cosmetics and dermatology.